"Ed's Red" Bore Cleaner
Home Mix Really Works
By C.E. ''Ed'' Harris
Four years ago I
mixed my first "Ed's Red" or "ER" bore cleaner and hundreds
of users have told me that they think this home-mixed cleaner is more effective
than commercial products. I urge you to mix some and give it a fair trial,
compared to whatever you have been using. Competitive shooters, gun clubs and
police departments who use a gallon or more of rifle bore cleaner annually can
save by mixing their own, and they will give up nothing in safety or
effectiveness.
This cleaner has
an action very similar to standard military issue rifle bore cleaner, such as
Mil-C-372B. Users report it is more effective than Hoppe's for removing plastic
fouling in shotgun bores, or caked carbon fouling in semi-automatic rifles or
pistols, or in removing leading in revolvers. It is not as effective as Sweets
7.62, Hoppe's Bench Rest Nine or Shooter's Choice for fast removal of heavy
copper fouling in rifle bores. However, because "ER" is more
effective in removing caked carbon and abrasive primer residues than other
cleaners, metal fouling is greatly reduced when "ER" is used on a
continuing basis.
I originally came
up with this mix because I am an active high power rifle competitive shooter
and hand loading experimenter who uses a lot of rifle bore cleaner. I was not
satisfied with the performance and high price of commercial products. I knew
there was no technical reason why an effective firearm bore cleaner couldn't be
mixed using common hardware store ingredients. The result is inexpensive,
effective, provides good corrosion protection and adequate residual lubrication
so that routine "oiling" after cleaning is rarely necessary, except
for long-term storage of over 1 year, or harsh service environments, such as
salt water exposure.
This formula is
based on proven principles and incorporates two polar and two nonpolar
solvents. It is adapted from the one in Hatcher's Notebook for "Frankford
Arsenal Cleaner No.18," but substituting equivalent modern materials. I
had the help of an organic chemist in doing this and we knew there would be no
"surprises." The original Hatcher formula called for equal parts of
acetone, turpentine, Pratts Astral Oil and sperm oil, and optionally 200 grams
of anhydrous lanolin added per liter. Some discussion of the ingredients is
helpful to understand the properties of the cleaner and how it works.
Pratts Astral oil
was nothing more than acid free, deodorized kerosene. I recommend
"K1" kerosene of the type normally sold for use in indoor space heaters.
Some users have reported successful substitution of civilian aviation grade
kerosene such as Turbo-A. I am reluctant to "recommend" substitution
of aviation grade kerosene, because the effects upon firearm components of the
additives required in aviation fuels are unknown. Some "jet- fuels"
are gasoline/kerosene blends and absolutely should not be used, because of
their increased flammability.
An inexpensive,
effective substitute for sperm oil is Dexron (II, IIe or III) automatic
transmission fluid. Prior to about 1950 that most ATF's were sperm oil based,
but during WWII a synthetic was developed for use in precision instruments.
With the great demand for automatic transmission autos after WWII, sperm oil
was no longer practical to produce ATF in the quantity demanded, so the
synthetic material became the basis for the Dexron fluids we know today. The
additives in ATFs which include organometallic antioxidants and surfactants,
make it highly suitable for inclusion in an all-purpose cleaner-lubricant-preservative.
Hatcher's
original Frankford Arsenal No. 18 formula used gum spirits of turpentine. { BPB ask is thisTaloil? Leigh HiValley Lube idea came from?} Because turpentine is expensive today, and is also an "aromatic"
solvent, which is highly flammable, I chose not to use it. Safer and cheaper is
"aliphatic mineral spirits," a petroleum based "safety
solvent" used for thinning oil based paints and also widely used as an
automotive parts cleaner. It is commonly sold under the names "odorless
mineral spirits," "Stoddard Solvent" or "Varsol".
Acetone is
included in "ER" to provide an aggressive, fast-acting solvent for
caked powder residues. Because acetone is an aromatic, organic solvent, it is
recommended that users leave it out if the cleaner will be used in enclosed
spaces lacking forced air ventilation. The acetone in ER will evaporate,
liberating volatile organic compounds (VOCs) into the atmosphere unless
containers are kept tightly closed when not in use. The cleaner is still
effective without the acetone, but it is not as "fast-acting."
There isn't anything in Ed's Red which
chemically dissolves copper fouling in rifle bores, but it does a better job
removing carbon and primer residue than anything else which is safe and
commonly available. Numerous users have told me, that exclusive use of
"ER" reduces copper deposits, because it removes the old impacted
powder fouling which is left by other cleaners, which reduces the abrasion and
adhesion of jacket metal to the bore surface, leaving a cleaner surface
condition which reduces subsequent fouling. Experience seems to indicate that
"ER" will actually remove metal fouling it if you let it
"soak," so the surfactants will do the job, though you have to be
patient.
Addition of the
lanolin to ER bore cleaner mix is entirely optional. The cleaner works quite
well and gives adequate corrosion protection and lubrication for most users
without it. Incorporating the lanolin makes the cleaner easier on the hands,
and increases lubricity and film strength, and improves corrosion protection if
weapons will be routinely exposed to salt air, water spray, industrial or urban
corrosive atmospheres, or if you intend to use the cleaner as a protectant for
long term storage of over 1 year.
If you use other
protective films for adverse use or long term storage you can leave the lanolin
out and save about $8 per gallon. At current retail prices you can buy all the
ingredients to mix ER, without the lanolin for about $10 per gallon. I urge you
to mix some yourself. I am confident it will work as well for you as it does
for me and hundreds of users who got the "recipe" on the Fidonet
Firearms Echo.
CONTENTS: Ed's Red Bore Cleaner
1 part Dexron II, IIe or III ATF, GM Spec. D-20265 or later.
1 part Kerosene - deodorized, K1
1 part Aliphatic Mineral Spirits, Fed. Spec. TT-T-2981F, CAS
#64741-49-9, or may substitute "Stoddard Solvent",
CAS #8052-41-3, or equivalent, (aka "Varsol")
1 part Acetone, CAS #67-64-1.
(Optional: Up to 1 lb. of Lanolin, Anhydrous, USP per
gallon, OK to substitute Lanolin, Modified, Topical Lubricant, from the drug
store)
MIXING INSTRUCTIONS FOR "ER" BORE CLEANER:
Mix outdoors, in
good ventilation. Use a clean 1 gallon metal, chemical-resistant, heavy gage
PET or PVC plastic container. NFPA approved plastic gasoline storage containers
are also OK. Do NOT use HDPE, which is permeable, because the acetone will
eventually evaporate. The acetone in ER will also attack HDPE, causing the
container to collapse, making a heck of a mess!
Add the ATF
first. Use the empty container to measure the other components, so that it is
thoroughly rinsed. If you incorporate the lanolin into the mixture, melt this
carefully in a double boiler, taking precautions against fire. Pour the melted
lanolin into a larger
container, rinsing the lanolin container with the bore
cleaner mix, and stirring until it is all dissolved.
I recommend
diverting a small quantity, up to 4 ozs. per quart of the 50-50 ATF/kerosene
mix for optional use as an "ER-compatible" gun oil. This can be done
without impairing the effectiveness of the remaining mix.
LABEL AND NECESSARY SAFETY WARNINGS:
RIFLE BORE CLEANER CAUTION: FLAMMABLE MIXTURE
HARMFUL IF SWALLOWED. KEEP OUT OF REACH OF CHILDREN
1. Flammable
mixture. Keep away from heat, sparks or flame.
2. FIRST AID, If
swallowed DO NOT induce vomiting, call physician immediately. In case of eye
contact immediately flush thoroughly with water and call a physician. For skin
contact wash thoroughly.
3. Use with adequate
ventilation. Avoid breathing vapors or spray mist. It is a violation of Federal
law to use this product in a manner inconsistent with its labeling. Reports
have associated repeated and prolonged occupational overexposure to solvents
with permanent brain and nervous system damage. If using in closed armory
vaults lacking forced air ventilation wear respiratory protection meeting NIOSH
TC23C or equivalent. Keep container tightly closed when not in use.
INSTRUCTIONS FOR USING "Ed's Red (ER)" Bore Cleaner:
1. Open the firearm
action and ensure the bore is clear. Cleaning is most effective when done while
the barrel is still warm to the touch from firing. Saturate a cotton patch with
bore cleaner, wrap or impale on jag and push it through the bore from breech to
muzzle. The patch should be a snug fit. Let the first patch fall off and do not
pull it back into the bore.
2. Wet a second
patch, and similarly start it into the bore from the breech, this time
scrubbing from the throat area forward in 4-5" strokes and gradually
advancing until the patch emerges out the muzzle. Waiting approximately 1
minute to let the bore cleaner soak will improve its action.
3. For pitted,
heavily carbon-fouled "rattle battle" guns, leaded revolvers or
neglected bores a bronze brush wet with bore cleaner may be used to remove
stubborn deposits. This is unnecessary for smooth, target-grade barrels in
routine use.
4. Use a final wet
patch pushed straight through the bore to flush out loosened residue dissolved
by Ed's Red. Let the patch fall off the jag without pulling it back into the
bore. If you are finished firing, leaving the bore wet will protect it from
rust for 1 year under average conditions.
5. If the lanolin
is incorporated into the mixture, it will protect the firearm from rust for up
to two years. For longer term storage I recommend use of Lee Liquid Alox as a
Cosmolene substitute. "ER" will readily remove hardened Alox or
Cosmolene.
6. Wipe spilled
Ed's Red from exterior surfaces before storing the gun. While Ed's Red is
harmless to blue and nickel finishes, the acetone it contains is harmful to
most wood finishes).
7. Before firing
again, push two dry patches through the bore and dry the chamber, using a patch
wrapped around a suitably sized brush or jag. First shot point of impact
usually will not be disturbed by Ed's Red if the bore is cleaned as described.
8. I have
determined to my satisfaction that when Ed's Red is used exclusively and
thoroughly, that hot water cleaning is unnecessary after use of Pyrodex or
military chlorate primers. However, if bores are not wiped between shots and
are heavily caked from black powder fouling, hot water cleaning is recommended
first to break up heavy fouling deposits. Water cleaning should be followed by
a thorough flush with Ed's Red to prevent after-rusting which could result from
residual moisture. It is ALWAYS good practice to clean TWICE, TWO DAYS APART
whenever using chlorate primed ammunition, just to make sure you get all the
corrosive residue out.
In Home Mix We
Trust, Regards, Ed
Updated &
Revised 9-29-95.
Warning: All technical data mentioned, especially
handloading, reflect the limited experience of individuals using specific
tools, products, equipment and components under specific conditions and
circumstances not necessarily reported in the article or on this web site and
over which this web site or the author has no control. The above has no control
over the condition of your firearms or your methods, components, tools,
techniques or circumstances and disclaims all and any responsibility for any
person using any data mentioned. Always consult recognized reloading manuals.
This
"Recipe" is placed in the public domain, and may be freely
distributed provided that it is done so in its entirely with all current
revisions, instructions and safety warnings included herein, and that proper
attribution is given to the author.
